Summary: Two Spanish organic extra virgin olive oil producers are demonstrating that sustainability goes far beyond a green label. Pago de Peñarrubia has integrated geese into its olive grove for weed control and soil improvement, while Oro del Desierto uses horses (and managed grazing) to maintain ground cover and close nutrient cycles. In this article, we explain what they do, why it works, and how it has a positive and measurable impact on the soil, biodiversity, and climate.
Why organic production matters (and how it shows in the soil)
Organic production in olive groves prohibits synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, promotes living soil (more organic matter, beneficial microbes, earthworms), and encourages ground cover and practices that reduce erosion, capture carbon, and increase biodiversity. All this results in olive groves that are more resilient to droughts and torrential rains, and oils with greater aromatic complexity.
In Spain, initiatives such as Olivares Vivos have shown that it is possible and profitable to increase biodiversity without losing productivity. At the same time, the Andalusian government has been promoting for years the benefits of ground cover in olive groves: less soil and water loss, reduced runoff, and better infiltration.
Pago de Peñarrubia: geese for grazing, weed control, and biodiversity
Where: Hellín (Albacete). Certification: organic throughout the entire farm. Organic profile.
Integrating geese into olive groves is no picturesque anecdote: it is a smart agronomic strategy. According to Olive Oil Times, Pago de Peñarrubia selected the Oca Empordanesa (an endangered Spanish breed) for its weed and biodiversity management, combining biological control with the conservation of avian genetic heritage. See: “Award-Winning Olive Oil Producer Thinks Weed Control Is for the Birds”.
How the goose system works:
- Weed control through grazing: they partially replace mechanical weeding and herbicides (prohibited in organic farming), saving fuel and reducing emissions.
- Natural fertilization: goose droppings add nitrogen and carbon to the topsoil, feeding beneficial bacteria and fungi.
- Stimulating soil life: more living roots and organic matter = more porosity, better infiltration, and less runoff.
- Functional biodiversity: by maintaining living ground cover and reducing mechanical intervention, they improve habitats for insects, birds, and small mammals.
In addition, Pago de Peñarrubia's quality strategy completes the circle: careful harvesting so that the fruit never touches the ground and milling in less than 3 hours after picking, which reduces oxidation and preserves aromas. Details on their website: “Organic olive oil” and home page.
Where to buy: At Molino y Cata, Pago de Peñarrubia Picual.
Oro del Desierto: horses and regenerative management in Tabernas
Where: Tabernas (Almería). Certification: organic for decades. AEMO Award for Spain's most sustainable olive farm (2023).
The Oro del Desierto team integrates horse grazing (and occasionally sheep) to manage the ground cover between the rows of the olive grove. In addition to reducing mechanical mowing, this practice closes nutrient cycles and distributes organic matter. References: producer profile (which mentions horses and sheep at different times of the year) and their own publications (videos and posts) showing the horses grazing under the olive trees and grazing in the olive grove.
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What horse management provides:
- Fewer emissions (less use of machinery for mowing) and less soil compaction.
- Fertility distribution at the base of the trees and in the rows through their droppings, improving organic carbon and CEC (cation exchange capacity).
- Better infiltration and resilience to intense rainfall events (key in a semi-arid climate like Tabernas).
Everything is accompanied by composting (using alperujo, pruning residues, and ground cover), terraces, and infiltration drains that prevent erosion. Oro del Desierto explains its approach on its blog and news page (e.g., the AEMO award and history and philosophy).
Where to buy: At Molino y Cata, Oro del Desierto collection.
What science (and experience) in olive groves says about ground cover and grazing
Agronomic evidence in Mediterranean olive groves supports these practices. The Junta de Andalucía compiled field results: ground cover reduces soil and water loss in most cases and, except for occasional compaction, improves infiltration and reduces runoff. This is complemented by the Olivares Vivos approach, which provides metrics on biodiversity and profitability together.
In summary: more living roots + well-managed grazing + composting = fluffier and more fertile soils, more water available for the olive trees, less erosion, and, in the long run, more expressive oils.
Comparative benefits: geese vs. horses (and common points)
Aspect Pago de Peñarrubia (Geese) Oro del Desierto (Horses) Ecosystem result Weed control Selective grazing, fewer mowings, and zero herbicides Reduced mechanical mowing and fuel Fewer emissions and more protective soil cover Soil fertility Nitrogen and carbon input via distributed droppings Organic input and better CEC More organic matter and microbial life Compaction/Infiltration Low mechanical impact; good infiltration Moderate treading compared to heavy machinery Less runoff, more useful water for the olive tree Biodiversity Use of a local breed (Oca Empordanesa) and stable habitats Varied plant structure + beneficial fauna Greater species richness and ecosystem servicesImpact on the oil: quality, consistency, and narrative
When the soil “breathes,” the olive tree notices. Active ground cover + organic nutrients + less stress favor more defined fruity notes, balanced bitter and spicy notes, and—overall—cleaner sensory profiles. At the brand level, these practices also create an honest storytelling: consumers in the U.S., Japan, or Korea increasingly value organic, regenerative, and traceable products.
- Learn more about Pago de Peñarrubia's philosophy and awards: official website and its organic approach.
- At Oro del Desierto, its AEMO award and its history summarize a long decade of regenerative work.
How to support these practices (and try their AOVEs)
Your purchase is a vote: by choosing organic AOVE from projects that regenerate soils, you are funding real ecosystem services (less erosion, more biodiversity, more carbon in the soil). Start by tasting two references that represent this model:
- Pago de Peñarrubia Picual — Jaén/Albacete, organic, green fruity with great clarity.
- Oro del Desierto (collection) — Tabernas, organic, expressive profiles that are consistent season after season.
Conclusion
From geese to horses, well-designed animal management demonstrates that sustainability is not “marketing,” but smart applied agronomy. Pago de Peñarrubia and Oro del Desierto offer a replicable roadmap for Mediterranean olive groves: living ground cover, planned grazing, composting, and smart water management. It is one of the decisions we make from the field to the bottle. The result can be seen and tasted: healthier soils, more vibrant landscapes, and oils that tell—in every glass—a compelling story of territory and the future.
Frequently asked questions
What do geese do in an organic olive grove?
Geese partially replace mechanical weeding and herbicides. They graze on the weeds between the olive trees, fertilize the soil with their droppings, and improve biodiversity. Pago de Peñarrubia uses geese of the Empordanesa breed—a Spanish breed in danger—combining biological control with genetic conservation. It is no anecdote: it is a documented agronomic strategy.
Why are horses used instead of machinery in some olive groves?
Horses maintain the ground cover without compacting the soil like a tractor would. Oro del Desierto uses horses and managed grazing to close nutrient cycles in its organic olive grove in Tabernas. The result is more living soil, with better water infiltration and greater resilience to droughts. In addition, they eliminate the dependence on fossil fuels for land management.
Does organic oil taste different from conventional oil?
In our tasting experience, organic oils usually have more intense and complex profiles. By not using fertilizers that accelerate fruit growth, the olive concentrates more aromatic compounds and polyphenols. Not all organic oils are superior to all conventional oils, but good organic oils have an expression of terroir that is difficult to match.
What environmental benefits does organic AOVE have beyond not using pesticides?
Organic production in olive groves promotes living soil with more organic matter and beneficial microbes, ground cover that reduces erosion, carbon capture, and greater biodiversity. Initiatives such as Olivares Vivos have shown that increasing biodiversity is compatible with profitability. The result is olive groves that are more resilient to droughts and torrential rains.