EVOO: what it is, what it’s used for, and how to choose the best extra virgin olive oil

EVOO stands for Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Discover what sets it apart, how to use it in cooking, its health benefits, and how to choose the best

By 10 min read

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In this article

    EVOO stands for Extra Virgin Olive Oil. That’s all it means, and you probably already knew that or Google just told you.

    TL;DR: EVOO stands for Extra Virgin Olive Oil: the highest category of olive oil, olive juice without defects. It’s good for everything—raw, stews, frying, and even baking—and the myth that you can’t fry with it is exactly the opposite of what the data shows. When choosing it, look at the harvest season before the price.

    What no one has told you is the second half of the question: what is it good for. And that’s where most people keep losing money and flavor, because they cling to ideas that have been circulating for forty years and are false.

    I’m Mercedes Uceda, a taster and professor of the Expert in Olive Oil Tasting course at the University of Jaén, and this is what I answer when they ask me in class.

    A quick note before we get into it: extra virgin is the highest category of the five on the shelf, and only two of those five are olive juice. The complete map is in types of olive oil, and the details of what exactly separates extra virgin from virgin in virgin and extra virgin. Both are part of our guide to understanding olive oil.

    What EVOO is good for in the kitchen

    Everything. That’s the short answer, and it’s literal: there is no home preparation where a good extra virgin is a worse choice than another fat.

    Raw. Dressings, toast, steamed vegetables, a drizzle over fish as it comes out of the oven, gazpacho. This is where you appreciate 100% of what you paid: the fruitiness, the bitterness, the spiciness. If you’re only going to have one good oil at home, it’s for this.

    For stews and sautéing. Sautéed bases, rice dishes, stews, stir-fries. EVOO adds its own flavor to the base of the dish, something sunflower oil doesn’t do because it has none.

    For frying. Yes, for frying. Now let’s get into this, because it deserves its own section.

    For baking. Cakes, muffins, pastries. Replace butter with it in a three-quarters ratio, and it gives a moister crumb and a longer shelf life. In baking, an oil with a mild profile, like Arbequina, usually works better than a very spicy one.

    And outside the pan. In homemade preserves, for macerating herbs or garlic, and in home cosmetics: vitamin E and polyphenols are the reason it has been used on the skin for centuries.

    Why you can fry with EVOO

    This is the point where most people are surprised, so here are the data.

    EVOO has a smoke point between 190 and 210 °C. Home frying rarely goes above 180 °C. You don’t burn it: you don’t get that high.

    And the important part comes next. What degrades a fat when heated is not just the temperature, it’s oxidation. EVOO reaches the pan loaded with antioxidants—polyphenols and vitamin E—which are exactly what delays that oxidation. Refined sunflower oil has none of that: it goes in naked. That’s why extra virgin withstands more frying before degrading than the fats we’ve been sold as “frying oils.”

    So when someone tells you “use sunflower oil for frying, because extra virgin burns,” they are telling you the opposite of what chemistry says. What is true is that a good part of the aromas are lost during frying: the oil behaves better, but you don’t taste it. That’s why it makes sense to save the most expensive oil for raw use and use a good one in a large format for the pan.

    Which is exactly the criterion I use when I buy, and the reason the section below exists.

    How to recognize a good EVOO on the label

    Five signs, in order of importance.

    1. The harvest season. This is the number one piece of information, and almost no one looks at it. It’s not mandatory to include it, so if a producer lists it, it’s because they have nothing to hide. The best-before date is useless: it’s counted from bottling, and not everything is bottled at once.
    2. The container. Dark glass, tin, or opaque PET. Oil in a clear bottle on a lit shelf is oxidizing while you look at it.
    3. The specific origin. “Oil of the European Union” means a blend without traceability. An origin with a name—a region, an estate—means someone is responsible for it.
    4. The variety. That it states it. Picual, hojiblanca, arbequina, cornicabra… it doesn’t matter which one it is, what matters is that it’s known.
    5. The price, but the opposite of how you look at it. A very cheap extra virgin is usually not efficient: it’s usually cheap because it has been stored for a long time or comes from olives bought by weight without traceability.

    What you should not look at: the color, which says absolutely nothing, and that’s why we tasters use a blue glass; and the acidity, which is a laboratory figure that cannot be perceived by tasting.

    Which one I buy for everyday use

    I’m going to be honest about the part that is usually omitted in these articles: at home, I don’t use the same oil for everything.

    For raw use, I always have a small bottle of something special, which I rotate according to the harvest season. But the oil that is in the kitchen every day, the one for the sautéed base, the one for the pan, the one that runs out, is MOCA, and we have it in 2- and 5-liter jugs.

    And here is the clarification that matters to me: we do not produce MOCA ourselves. We have olive groves, but no oil mill, so the oil does not come from our hands. What we contribute is the only thing we know how to do better than anyone: taste it. I select it season by season, using the same criteria I use to decide what goes into the oleoteca, and we bottle it with our name because we are responsible for it. The difference is that this is the one we wanted to have at home.

    The format is not accidental. Two and five liters is the size for someone who really cooks with olive oil and doesn’t ration it. At that volume, the price per liter stops being a luxury and it starts making sense to fry with extra virgin, which is what this whole article is about.

    If you’re looking for the opposite—a bottle to give as a gift or to discover something new—that’s in the oleoteca, not here.

    Benefits: what is proven and what is not

    EVOO is the most studied food in the Mediterranean diet, and it’s best to separate what has been proven from what is repeated.

    The solid evidence: the PREDIMED study associated the consumption of extra virgin olive oil with a reduction in cardiovascular risk. And the EFSA, the European Food Safety Authority, officially recognizes a health claim: the polyphenols in olive oil help protect blood lipids from oxidative damage. To be able to make that claim, at least 250 mg/kg of polyphenols are required, which many extra virgins on the shelf do not reach.

    Behind this are three components: oleic acid—between 70 and 80% of the fat—polyphenols, and vitamin E. The most studied of the polyphenols is oleocanthal, which is also responsible for that scratch in the throat that many people mistake for a defect.

    What I would not say: that olive oil cures anything. It is an excellent food within a diet, not a medicine.

    How to store it so it doesn’t lose what you paid for

    Three rules and that’s it: away from light, away from heat, and with the cap on. The enemies are light, oxygen, and temperature, in that order.

    That means not storing it next to the induction cooktop—which is exactly where almost everyone keeps it—or by the window. Between 15 and 20 °C is perfect. And if in winter you see that it gets cloudy or solidifies, it’s not a defect: it’s because it’s cold and the triglycerides crystallize. It returns to its state at room temperature.

    A poorly stored EVOO loses a significant part of its polyphenols in just a few months, and with them goes exactly what made it worth more than another oil.

    What you really should remember

    EVOO is olive juice without defects, and it’s good for everything, including the pan. If you have to keep just one idea from this article, let it be this: look at the harvest season before the price. A modest and fresh extra virgin is a better buy than a prestigious one from two years ago.

    Frequently asked questions

    What do the initials EVOO stand for?

    EVOO stands for Extra Virgin Olive Oil, the highest category of olive oil. It is olive juice obtained only by mechanical means, without any chemical process, and to bear that name it cannot have a single sensory defect: this is verified by an official tasting panel in addition to laboratory analysis.

    What is EVOO good for in the kitchen?

    Everything. Raw—dressings, toast, finishing a dish—is where you appreciate the fruitiness, bitterness, and spiciness you paid for. For sautéed bases, rice dishes, and stews, it provides its own flavor that sunflower oil does not have. It is also good for frying, and even for baking, where it replaces butter in a three-quarters ratio and gives a moister crumb. Outside the pan, it is used in preserves, macerations, and homemade cosmetics.

    Can you fry with extra virgin olive oil?

    Yes, and it’s the best choice. EVOO has a smoke point between 190 and 210 °C, and home frying rarely goes above 180 °C, so you don’t reach the point of burning it. Furthermore, what degrades a fat when heated is above all oxidation, and extra virgin reaches the pan loaded with antioxidants—polyphenols and vitamin E—that delay it. Refined sunflower oil has none of that. What you do lose when frying are the aromas.

    What is the difference between olive oil and extra virgin olive oil?

    Extra virgin is olive juice without defects. What the label simply calls “olive oil” is fat chemically refined from lampante oil, then mixed with a small proportion of virgin oil to give it back some color and aroma. They are not two ranges of the same product: they are two different products. If the label does not say “virgin” or “extra virgin,” it is not juice.

    How do I choose a good EVOO at the supermarket?

    Look at the harvest season before the price. It is not mandatory to include it, so if a producer lists it, it’s because they have nothing to hide; the best-before date is not valid, because it is counted from bottling. Then look at the container (dark glass, tin, or opaque PET), make sure the origin is specific, and that it declares the variety. What you should not look at is the color, which says nothing, or the acidity, which cannot be perceived by tasting.

    Which is the best EVOO for everyday use?

    It depends on the use. For raw use, a small bottle of something special is worth it, because that’s where you appreciate everything. For cooking and frying every day, a good extra virgin in a large format, two or five liters, makes more sense, where the price per liter stops being a luxury. That is the criterion with which we select MOCA: we do not produce it ourselves—we have olive groves, but no oil mill—Mercedes selects it season by season from the oils she tastes.

    How is extra virgin olive oil stored?

    Away from light, away from heat, and with the cap on. The enemies are light, oxygen, and temperature, in that order, so the worst possible place is next to the induction cooktop or by the window. Between 15 and 20 °C is perfect. If in winter it gets cloudy or solidifies, it is not a defect: it is the triglycerides crystallizing due to the cold, and it returns to its state at room temperature.

    What health benefits does EVOO have?

    The PREDIMED study associated its consumption with a reduction in cardiovascular risk, and the EFSA officially recognizes that the polyphenols in olive oil help protect blood lipids from oxidative damage. To be able to make that claim, at least 250 mg/kg of polyphenols are required, which many extra virgins on the shelf do not reach. Behind this are oleic acid, polyphenols, and vitamin E. It is an excellent food within a diet, not a medicine.

    Mercedes Uceda

    Biologist and expert virgin olive oil taster. She selects every oil at Molino & Cata, leads its tastings and sits on the juries of Evooleum, Ovibeja and the LA IOOC.

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