In the fields of northeastern Spain, where the sun caresses the hills of Lleida, grows a modest olive tree that hides a gastronomic treasure.Arbequina olives, originally from the Catalan town of Arbeca, has become the star of premium extra virgin olive oils (EVOO), conquering everything from Michelin-starred kitchens to homes across the globe.
From Catalan village to global icon
It all began in the 17th century, when the Duchess of Cardona brought this variety to her fiefdom in Arbeca. Today, its legacy extends to 65 countries: from Chile to Japan, passing through California. The secret? A unique combination of adaptability and subtlety. These trees, barely 4 meters tall—a third shorter than other varieties—thrive in poor soils and can withstand frosts as low as -10°C, according to data from the International Olive Council.
"It's the perfect variety for modern agriculture," explains Juan Pérez, an agricultural engineer at the Agri-Food Research Institute of Catalonia. "It allows for super-intensive crops with up to 2,000 trees per hectare, tripling traditional production."
The liquid gold of the senses
Arbequina olives are small—barely 2 grams each—but they contain an extraordinary amount of juice. To obtain one liter of their prized oil, 5 kilos of these fruits are needed, which ripen slowly until December. The result is a golden liquid with an aroma of freshly cut grass and notes of almond and green apple.
"Its smoothness makes it perfect for beginners," says sommelier María González. "While other oils hit the palate hard, Arbequina seduces with creamy nuances." This delicacy has made it a favorite of chefs like Ferran Adrià, who uses it in savory ice creams and innovative emulsions.
Revolution in the countryside
Mechanization has been key to their success. Eighty percent of new plantations employ hedgerow systems that allow harvesting with grape harvesting machines. "Previously, we needed 10 day laborers per hectare; now, two workers and one machine are sufficient," explains Laura Méndez, a producer from Córdoba.
This efficiency comes at an environmental cost. Studies from the University of Jaén show that these crops reduce water consumption by 30% compared to traditional methods.
Future between tradition and innovation
While scientists work on hybrid varieties that maintain flavor but improve resistance, small producers are investing in quality seals. The Siurana Designation of Origin, the heart of the Catalan Arbequina olive oil industry, has been certifying the authenticity of these oils since 1975.
In the hills of Arbeca, where it all began, the centuries-old olive trees continue to bear fruit. Every November, their branches laden with tiny green olives are a reminder that, in the world of liquid gold, great flavors sometimes come in small packages.
