Corner of Subbética

In the lands of southern Spain, where the sun shapes landscapes of endless olive groves, a unique variety grows: the Hojiblanca olive. With its poetic name—inspired by the whitish underside of its leaves—this fruit is today a symbol of versatility. It represents 17% of Andalusian olive production and is used in everything from gourmet salads to internationally award-winning olive oils.

Roots with history

Originating in the Cordoba countryside, the Hojiblanca variety spread to Malaga, Seville, and Granada thanks to its resilience. "It's the survivor of the olive grove," explains Juan Pérez, an agricultural engineer at the Institute for Sustainable Agriculture. While other varieties succumb to poor soils or drought, its deep roots find water where there seems to be none. This resilience allows it to be grown even in mountainous areas, where winter frosts are common.

Two treasures in one fruit

What makes this olive special is its dual personality. "It's like having an actor who shines in both drama and comedy," says chef María Gómez. As an olive oil, its juice offers green notes of freshly cut grass with a hint of almond. As a table olive, it surprises with its generous size (6-7 grams) and firm flesh, ideal for creative dressings.

Producers take advantage of the staggered ripening period (from November to March) to create different profiles. Early harvests produce spicier and more aromatic oils, while late harvests produce milder versions, perfect for desserts.

In the kitchen and beyond

In markets, Hojiblanca olives are presented in a variety of ways: in traditional brine, pitted and stuffed with anchovy, or as the star of innovations like fermented black olive pâté. Its oil, with a smoke point of 180°C, is the secret behind many restaurants' ability to sauté vegetables without masking their flavors.

Recently, cutting-edge ice cream shops have been using it to create mantecados with a salty-sweet contrast. "The oil softens the yogurt's acidity and adds complexity," reveals ice cream maker Diego Martín.

Challenges and innovative solutions

Although resilient, the Hojiblanca variety faces challenges. Its alternating production—years of heavy harvest followed by leaner ones—complicates the situation for growers. The solution comes from clones developed by Cordoba researchers, such as HB-62, which reduces these fluctuations by 30%.

Mechanization is another front. Their fruit clings tightly to the branches, resisting automatic shakers. The answer: robotic harvesters with pressure sensors that adjust the intensity without damaging the tree, a technology already tested on farms in Malaga.

Green future

Projects like Olivares Vivos transform crops into havens for biodiversity. Among the Hojiblanca olive trees, native plants flourish, attracting more than 150 species of birds and pollinating insects. "Each hectare becomes a CO₂ sink equivalent to a 20,000-km car trip," highlights Elena Cruz, project biologist.

From traditional tapas to ice cream wafers, from the fields of Andalusia to the tables of Tokyo and New York, the Hojiblanca olive proves that tradition and innovation can go hand in hand. While the climate challenges agriculture, this ancient olive continues to forge its history with deep roots and branches toward the future.